22 Foundation Paper Piecing Tips
Click here or on the image above to watch the video on this topic.
As I always say, there are many ways to make a quilt. The technique of foundation paper piecing is no exception. There are many ways to do it, including the paperless version (not my favorite) using freezer paper. I, however, like to use paper and in this blog, I'll discuss 22 invaluable tips and tricks that help me have a successful foundation paper piecing experience, from essential tools to organization tips. Get ready to elevate your quilting game and unleash your creativity with confidence!
Here are 22 tips for successful foundation paper piecing (FPP). I hope these help you in all of your FPP projects!
Read the Pattern Completely: I made this mistake. I glanced at the pattern but didn’t take the time to really absorb it. Because I didn’t, I ended up making many mistakes. If I would have taken the time (maybe 10 minutes, if that) to thoroughly read it, it would have saved me probably an hour or two of mistake management. Don’t let this happen to you.
Use Newspaper Print: Sure, we can use regular printer paper. It works, it is something we all have, and it is easy, but newspaper print works so much better. It tears away easy, is easier to see through, and makes for less-bulky seams.
Cut Outside the Lines: After printing the pieces and sections, I like to cut them out just outside of the 1/4” seam line. This ensures I always cover the 1/4” seams. I trim them down when I am finished sewing a unit.
Cut Fabric Ahead of Time: Confession time here! I didn’t always do this. I would FPP using the Chunk-Of-Scrap method by taking a chunk, laying it down, and just sewing. I have since learned that cutting out the fabric is better. It saves time in the long run and stops mistakes from happening. Many patterns include cutting instructions now (yay!).
Organize Pieces/Units: Getting (and staying) organized is important to me. It keeps me on track. Maybe this will help you, too. Personally, I like to use trays to organize the units as well as tags to label them. I am also a little extra because I like to color code the units, too. If you don’t have trays, you can use paper plates, pieces of cardboard, cookie sheets, etc.
Set Up Your Workspace: Having everything ready to go helps with productivity and makes the overall experience more enjoyable. I set up my workstation before I even sew a stitch.
Thread Color: Chose a thread color that works well with your pieces. This is going to be different depending on the projects. For example, if you are using dark fabrics, you will want to pick a dark thread; if you are using light fabrics, you will want to use a light thread. It some cases, you may want to change the thread color to match the fabrics in the unit.
Wind Bobbins: Getting bobbins ready before sewing will help you in the long run, especially as you get into the rhythm of sewing the units. No one wants to stop and wind a bobbin midway through a project., right? The number of bobbins to wind ahead of time will depend on the size of the project and the size of the bobbins. For example, for the table runner project I made in the video, I wound two bobbins.
A New Needle: A new sharp needle will make this experience so much better!
The Right Foot: Personally, I like to use an open-toe foot for foundation paper piecing. This helps me see the lines. For my machine, the open-toe foot actually has a red arrow. Perfect! Although you can use any foot, this works best for me.
Reduce The Stitch Length: I turn my stitch length down to 1.5. This makes the stitches tighter and less likely to pull out when I am removing the papers. It also helps perforate the paper further making it easier to remove.
Snip Threads As You Go: I keep a pair of snips at my machine and cut those little pesky threads as I go. This saves me time later and ensures I get all of the threads.
Straight Edge: After I sew a seam, I use a straight edge to fold the paper back on before cutting away the extra fabric down to 1/4”. You can use any rigid-ish edge for this like an index card. I like to use the Prairy Point tool by Susan Cleveland. The newer Add-A-Quarter rulers have an edge on them now, too.
A Plan For Scraps/Trash: FPP generates a lot of scraps and general trash. I keep a small trash can on my table. This makes clean up easy!
Sort Scraps AFTER Finishing the Project: Because I have all my scraps together (see tip above), I can easily sort out my scraps after the project is finished.
Clean Up Periodically: Even though I have everything set up to be as efficient and neat as possible, I still stop sewing periodically (for me, between trays/sections) to tidy up.
Pressing Pieces: Pressing is extra important when foundation paper piecing because you need to make sure the piece is flat and covering the next sew line. When pressing, do not use steam (paper and fabric will get out of whack) and always press on the fabric side.
Trimming Down Blocks: Once the unit, blocks, etc. are finished, carefully trim the blocks on the 1/4” line. Make sure to read the instructions. Sometimes there will be areas to mark, too.
Removing Papers: My best tip is to have someone else remove the papers. Works perfectly! (Thanks, Honey!) Some of the tools used are tweezers, pencil erasers, wooden skewers, and That Purple Thang (the best!).
Pesky Pieces: For those pieces that just won’t come out, I use That Purple Thang to remove them. It works beautifully!
Take Your Time: It is easy to get mixed up when foundation paper piecing. Everything is upside down and backwards after all! Take your time. Also, take your time piecing. I was a bit rushed with this project and wasn’t as accuate as I should have been. This resulted in me having to trim down the block more than was outlined in the pattern. Luckily, it didn’t have a huge impact on the overall project, but it wasn’t as the designer intended either.
Give Yourself Grace: Mistakes will happen. As I said, everything is upside down and backwards. Adding to this, the angles don’t seem to make sense, or is it just me? :) Give yourself grace with this process.